We are aware of the large number of black designers who would have contributed significantly to the official calendar; thus, this is extremely disappointing.
For example, it would have been wonderful to have Ozwald Boateng, Martine Rose, and Bianca Saunders in the starting lineup this season.
Well-known companies like Wales Bonner and up-and-coming companies like Lagos Space Programme will showcase their newest collections in the coming days. Bonner’s structured suits and frequently Jamaican-inspired items have benefited greatly from her research-based design approach. According to WWD, Balmain, the brand led by Olivier Rousteing, will make a comeback to the Paris Fashion Week schedule with its final presentation on Saturday, the 20th.
The men’swear collection of the firm will be highlighted in the exhibition. From his beginnings at Robert Cavalli in 2003 to his position as creative director at Balmain, Rousteing’s trajectory has served as a source of inspiration for several young black designers.
1. Botter
The gender-neutral Caribbean brand, which was co-founded in 2017 by Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, was a nominee for the LVMH award in 2018 and received the Andam prize in 2022. The brand is well-known for its “Caribbean couture” design guidelines, which feature vivid hues and creative concepts like dressing pants like sweaters.
Herrebrugh attended the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, while Botter studied design at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Because of the viral success of their Spring/Summer 2023 runway show featuring models wearing floaty condom gloves, the duo’s display this season promises to be nothing short of extraordinary.
2. Wales Bonner
In only a few short years since Grace Wales Bonner founded the menswear brand in 2014, it has grown from a startup to established status. Numerous rappers, including Tyler, the Creator, and Kendrick Lamar, have expressed interest in her designs.
In addition, Bonner draws influence from her Jamaican background for items that have an island vibe.
The presentation by Wales Bonner is scheduled for January 17 at 6:30 p.m. local time.
3. Lagos Space Programme
Designer Adeju Thompson founded the Lagos Space Program in 2018. The non-binary luxury company has seen significant growth over the past several years. Thompson’s brand philosophy revolves around African design codes, blackness, and the harmony between beauty and masculinity.
Thompson, who was raised in the UK and was born in Lagos, began their career in 2013 as an apprentice at the Lagos-based Maki Oh label before starting their label.
Following that, Thompson was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers in 2021 and went on to win the International Woolmark Prize in 2023. Additionally, Thompson’s creations were included in the “Africa Fashion” exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Lagos Space Programme will be presenting on January 19 between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. local time.
4. Winnie New York
Idris Balogun created Winnie New York in 2018, intending to dismantle luxury. Balogun’s Nigerian background greatly influences his design techniques; each piece he creates incorporates a personal narrative. Before starting his own company, he worked as an apprentice for Tom Ford and Burberry. With that knowledge, Balogun has concentrated on making perfectly-made, high-quality items that last. At the next runway presentation, don’t expect transient gimmicks but rather superb suiting.
The presentation by Winnie New York is scheduled for January 21 at 11:30 a.m. local time.
5. Balmain
At the age of 24, Olivier Rousteing has held the position of creative director at Balmain since 2011—a remarkable accomplishment for many black designers. Even in and of itself, his career’s durability at such a young age is inspirational.
For over 13 years, he radically altered Balmain’s look from that of his predecessor to include a stronger couture component. Notable accomplishments include reviving a fashion brand and designing special ensembles for Beyoncé’s most successful tour.
Rousteing’s ability to adapt and shift perceptions as a black designer in the fashion world has not gone unnoticed. Balmain’s next collection marks the brand’s independent menswear debut and adds to Rousteing’s library of avant-garde concepts.
Content courtesy of Essence Magazine & NFH
